
As if things couldn't get any sleepier, we unanimously decided not to take a snorkeling/diving/island/boat tour then next day. The sea was too choppy for our liking and we didn't want get lost at sea or have our tour called off mid-way. Instead, we set off for Railay beach. What fascinated us about this place was that several travelers had recommended this beach over Ao Nang. Railay is a beach accessible only by long tail boat from certain piers along the Krabi coastline. Motorboats do ply, but it's no fun if you don't do it the proper way - the way the locals do it. Unfortunately, due to the weather and the high tide, boats were not leaving from the 2 piers at Ao Nang beach. SO and I had to catch a Songthaew (a tuk-tuk made by fitting a contraption with seats onto a scooty) to the nearest pier at Ao Nam Mao. We had to wade through knee-deep water to get to the boat, had to somehow manage to jump into the rickety thing and found ourselves a seat. 60 baht for a one-way trip was a little steep for our liking, but we were not about to turn away.
The boat-ride was bumpy, and thankfully neither of us got sea-sick. Half an hour later, we were jumping into knee-deep water again, thanking our stars that we'd had the presence of mind to wear shorts. We were the only tourists on the boat, and by the time we managed to wade to solid ground, there was noone in sight. Was this the Railay everyone had raved about? The clouds decided to give way to the sun and we were burning, literally. I had forgotten to use sunscreen and had forgotten to carry it with me as well. Succumbing to the heat we fell into a shack where we ordered cold coffee. Referring to our Lonely Planet, we got our bearings and found out that we were on the wrong side of the island. A short walk through a couple of resorts and we were at the other side. It boasted of a short expanse of beach sans hawkers, beach chairs, and people. It was unbelievable. We had stumbled upon the perfect uninhabited beach that we imagined shipwrecks to lead you to. But then again, such serenity and isolation is not appeciated for long if you're not carrying food with you. 100 meters from the water was a restaurant that seemed to be the only one around. That was the centre of all action and, as we sat down for a quick bite, we grabbed the last available table. So that's where everyone had been hiding!
After lunch we walked a little further to find a second-hand bookstore and mountaineering guides. Railay is known for its rock formations which are conducive to climbing. Neither SO nor I are of the climbing sort, so we passed on that and took the marginally longer walk back to catch a boat back to Ao Nam Mao. We avoided falling prey to the offers made by the self-proclaimed boat organizers. With no boat in site, they offered to charter one specially for us at an exhorbitant price of 1000 baht. They tried to scare us by saying that that would be the only way off the island for us. We ignored them, and sure enough, half an hour later we were on our way back in a normal boat alongside the locals. The taxi ride back to Ao Nang was done in silence as it sunk in that our Krabi sojourn was almost over. As we walked to one end of Ao Nang beach, I urged SO to explore the extension of the beach that was a part of a resort. Stepping into the area we were pleasantly surprised to find that that too was a part of the public beach. Elderly ladies thronged us with rate cards in their hands for Thai massages. We randomly picked a lady, haggled with her, came to a price acceptable by both parties and followed her as she hurried past the others.
We crossed a boat turned into a bar - The Last Fisherman, both of us making a mental note to catch a drink there later. The massage parlour (!) was an open air contraption with 4 matresses laid out side-by-side. We were greeted with pineapple, part of the staple diet in Thailand and made to wait until a group of 4 Japanese tourists were being massaged. When our turn came, I looked out at the adjoining sea and wondered if there ever was a place as perfect as this. The massage was soothing to my aching limbs from the day before spent climbing Wat Tham Suea, and the sea breeze and gritty sand in my teeth made it all the more authentic thai. In a state of delirium, we made our way to the Last Fisherman. It began to pour when we had hardly downed our first drink. We moved from the beach to the bar, which had been carved out of an actual boat. What started out as a drink each turned into many and we drowned our departure sorrows in the best watering hole we had ever been to. We booked a cab on the way back to the hotel as the bus service started too late for us to be able to catch our morning flight to Bangkok. We packed our bags in silence and SO looked forward to his last breakfast buffet at the Krabi resort.
We rose extra early the next morning because of a combination of my paranoia about missing our flight and SO's excitement over breakfast. We stuffed our faces right at a table a few feet away from the sea and counted down to our flight time.